When laymen talk about coffee, they often like to talk about dark or light roasts, or which country the coffee was produced in.
And while it’s true that these are indeed contributing factors to the deliciousness of the bean, something very important often gets overlooked in coffee discussions: And that is the processing.
There are dozens of different coffee processing procedures, and they all affect the bean’s final flavor massively.
15 years ago most specialty coffee on the market was washed, but in recent years farmers, exporters and roasters have launched something that could be described as a processing revolution.
As more and more experiments are being done all over the world, it’s becoming clear that the difference between a coffee that is good and one that is world-class, is often down to processing.
In this post I’ll go down the rabbit hole of coffee processing and tell you everything worth knowing about this fascinating and often overlooked part of the coffee cherry.
COFFEE BEAN 101
But before we get into processing, let’s just have a nano-sized biology lesson.
See, the coffee bean technically isn’t a bean. In reality, it’s a seed, and this seed is developed inside what we call a ‘coffee cherry.’
Technically, coffee farming is fruit farming.
Processing is all about turning that fruit into a stable and homogenized product that is ready for export, where it will eventually be roasted.
It usually goes down the way described below.
Stages from cherry to coffee bean
- Plant: The coffee cherry changes from green to red and matures slowly as harvest season approaches.
- Picking: During harvest season, pickers will visit all coffee trees. Ideally, they’ll only pick the ripe cherries.
- Processing: After the cherries have been collected they will be processed. In its essence, processing is all about removing the pulp and drying the seed without creating mold or fermentation problems. There are three main ways to process coffee:
- Washing (aka wet processing)
- The Natural method (aka dry processing)
- The honey process
- Dry milling: The last step of processing is to remove a protective layer called ‘the parchment’ that sits outside the bean. It’s a thin but hard shell.
- Green bean: This is the finished agricultural product that is ready for export. The moisture level should be around 10-12 %. It should be stored carefully.
- Roasting: The green bean is bought by the coffee roaster, where it can be stored for up to a year. The roaster will usually be located in the country of consumption.
THE 3 MAIN PROCESSING METHODS
When you go into the finer subtleties, there are countless of ways to process coffee, but generally speaking they fall into three main categories: Washed, natural and honey.
Each processing method results in different flavors, and this is important to note if you’re looking for particular characteristics in your coffee.
In the following sections I’ll go in-depth with the finer subtleties of each of them.
tHE natural process
The oldest method for processing coffee beans is the natural processing method. You may have heard it called ‘dry processing’ as well.
Typical Notes: Strawberry, Blueberry, Raisin, Pineapple, Jackfruit, White Wine
Originated in: Ethiopia and Yemen.
Flavor Profile: During the drying process, the coffee beans absorb the fruit’s flavors, and this allows for a more intense, sweet flavor. You might experience a strawberry or blueberry note. It’s common to get fermented almost winy flavors with natural processed coffees. Regions with a long tradition for eating pickled and fermented food, will often favor naturals. In paces like Taiwan and Korea you’ll find a big percentage of natural processed coffees in the coffee shops.
Method: This kind of processing is very crude and basic in its most simple form. The cherry is harvested and placed on raised mats, beds, or patios to be dried in the sun.
Once the cherry has reached the correct right moisture level, the coffee will be hulled to remove the coffee cherry’s skin and the pulp. Typically this will take 2-4 weeks.
Historically, natural processed coffee was considered low-grade, since it doesn’t remove defect cherries the same way that washing does.
There’s a lot of things that can go wrong during the drying process, so the farmers need to pay constant attention to the cherries to avoid mold or over-fermentation.
tHE washed process
The washed process is the most common and also the most consistent coffee processing method.
Typical Notes: Chocolate, nuts, lemon, florals, stonefruit
Originated in: Latin America
Flavor Profile: Washed coffee is what most people will recognize as ‘normal coffee’. Compared to the other main schools of processing, it tends to increase the acidity and clarity of the coffee bean.
With this method, you typically end up with a refined and balanced coffee. The best washed coffees have complex notes, a medium body and a pronounced acidity, while still being sweet. They are great for being brewed in a typical coffee machine.
Method: The washed process is the most consistent method when it comes to quality. Washing takes place at a dedicated wet mill. At the bigger farms in Latin America, there is typically a washing station on-site, while in Africa it is common for smallholder farmers to bring their cherries to local washing stations owned by coops.
First, the freshly picked coffee cherries are put in water. This is a way to sort out cherries that are unripe or have some other defect. The bad cherries will often rise to the surface. They are called ‘floaters’.
The cherries then go through a de-pulper that will remove the outer skin and pulp.
A layer of slime will be left on the seed though – this is called mucilage and can be compared to the sticky layer that coats the stone of a peach.
In order to get rid of this mucilage, the seed will have to ferment in water tanks for 8-50 hours. The time the seeds are allowed to soak depends on the equipment, climate, and the preference of the producer.
After that beans will be floated and rinsed once again. The beans are then dried on concrete patios or raised bed until they have reached a moisture content of 10-12 %.
tHE honey process
This processing method emerged in Costa Rica around 15 years ago. However, the traditional Brazilian way of processing coffee bears many similarities.
Typical Notes: Cane sugar, dates, caramel, apricot, fig, low acidity
Originated in: Brazil and Costa Rica
Flavor Profile: Because the coffee cherry is stripped of its skin, but the pulp remains intact while it dries, this process brings out the sweetness and body of the coffee flavor.
Depending on how much pulp remains, it influences how the end product will taste.
Some are closer to the naturals and have flavors similar to dried fruits, while others are more forward and acidic. Usually, they are very sweet and pleasant though.
Method: The beans are depulped and laid out to dry with the slimy outer layer (called mucilage) remaining.
In spite of the name honey processing has nothing to do with actual honey. The name originated from Costa Rica, where coffee farmers would compare the sticky and sweet mucilage stuck to the bean with honey – “miel” in Spanish. Ironically, this coffee tends to be very sweet and fruity, so the name somehow makes sense. In recent years honey processing has become popular with coffee snobs in all parts of the world, because it tends to combine the best aspects of both the washed and natural process.
YELLOW, RED, AND BLACK HONEY
As mentioned above, some coffee producers have started to label their coffee either yellow, red or black honey.
These colors refers to what the coffee will look like when it’s being dried. Depending on how much of the pulp is left on the bean, different colors will develop.
- Yellow Honey goes through a semi-washing process that is designed to leave less mucilage around the coffee bean. This leads to a cleaner and sweeter tasting coffee more similar to the washed method. The drying process is usually faster than the red and black.
- Red Honey is also rinsed a bit but it has more mucilage intact, and will take on more color when dried.
- Black Honey is often said to have all the mucilage intact.
THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PULPED NATURALS & HONEYS
While natural and washed coffee are easy to understand, the definitions can become somewhat murky when we talk about the honey process. Especially because some coffee regions have used a different terminology to describe what is essentially the same.
The pulped naturals of Brazil could also be called ‘honeys’ or maybe more precisely ‘red honeys’, as the process is similar.
Sometimes you’ll also hear the term semi-washed, which can again be compared to yellow honey.
It seems that the specialty coffee industry has taken a liking to the term ‘honey’, so this will most likely prevail in the future – maybe except when it comes to the of Brazil.
Other processing methods
Even though the vast majority of the coffee produced in the world reasonably could be said to land within the one of the three methods outlined above, there are other processing methods out there that are worth a closer look.
Some are historical relics that still have a small but loyal fan base, while others are new and cutting-edge methods that aim to modulate flavor notes or fermentation even more.
While processing has been more of an afterthought in the last century and before, there’s no doubt that it will be an area of massive focus for future generations of coffee farmers.
We have already seen techniques from the wine industry move in to coffee processing, and there is no doubt that this is just the beginning.
This processing method emerged in Costa Rica around 15 years ago. However, the traditional Brazilian way of processing coffee bears many similarities.
Sasa Sestic, a world-champion barista, is known to use the so-called ‘Washed Carbonic Maceration’ to process coffee. The process starts with the coffee cherries being harvested and washed.
Once they’re washed, they’re sealed in a stainless steel container that gets carbon dioxide pumped in to remove all of the oxygen from the sealed container.
Once the oxygen is out, the coffee beans will sit in water that is carefully monitored for temperature. These stainless steel containers are then put into greenhouses where the temperature is kept around 24 degrees celsius. This process allows the beans to macerate in a carefully controlled environment to ensure that the finished product has a very distinct flavor. It also makes it easier to duplicate the same flavors over and over again.
Acetic & Lactic processing
This innovative kind of processing is all about controlling fermentation to modulate the flavor profile.
The innovative Colombian Farm, ‘La Palma y El Tucan’ has created two different signature processing methods called ‘acetic’ and ‘lactic’ processing.
Both are variations of the traditional Colombian wash process, but with some key differences. The pulped beans are fermenting in special anaerobic tanks, where the oxygen flow and pH level can be controlled. This promotes the growth of certain strains of bacteria that will create either lactic or acetic acid. After the fermentation the coffee is dried in two stages. First on drying beds and afterwards in a mechanical dryer.
The typical Kenyan processing method is often called ‘double fermenation’. and it creates amazingly clean tasting coffee.
Kenyan coffees are famed worldwide due to their high acidity, clean flavors and unique notes of apple, blackberry and tomato. Part of this is down to the unique Kenyan coffee varietals SL28 and SL32, but another reason is the special almost all coffees are processed in this country.
The Kenyan method is often called the double fermentation. The beans are first soaked for 12 to 46 hours to remove any pulping residue. Then they are washed and rinsed off. But then they are put in a second fermentation tank, where the process repeats itself for 12-24 hours – this time with significantly less sugar. Again, a wash and soaking follows.
After that the beans are laid out to dry in two stages. A rapid one and a slower one. When the coffee has reached 11-12 percent moisture content is ready to be milled.
Wet hulled & gilling basah
Much of Indonesian coffee’s unique flavor is derived from this crude and unusual processing method.
Wet hulling, called ‘giling basah’ in the local language, is the main processing method on the islands of Sulawesi and Sumatra, which are the biggest coffee regions in Indonesia.
You could be forgiven for thinking that wet hulling and the washed method have many similarities, but in fact their flavor profiles couldn’t be more different.
In the world of specialty coffee, this kind of processing is frowned upon. It’s a bit like taking a nice piece of Kobe-steak and then smothering it with ketchup.
Smallholder farmers carry out the first step themselves. It involves depulping the cherry and then fermenting the beans by letting them soak in whatever kind of tub, tank, plastic bag or container they have around in their backyard.
Once they’ve soaked for a day, the beans get washed in order to remove any mucilage left. Then the beans are sundried for two to three days until the moisture content is between 20 and 24 percent.
At this point the farmers will sell the beans to a middleman, who will wet-hull them right away with a machine that is specially designed to handle semi-dry parchment. Hence the name; wet-hulling. These machines are very powerful and they can easily damage the beans.
MONSOONED MALABAR COFFEE
This kind of processing aims to emulate colonial conditions.
Monsooned Malabar coffee is a rather old-fashioned processing technique that doesn’t get much love from the specialty coffee community. However, once in a while you still see this particular bean show up in an espresso blend.
The process take its name from the Malabar coast in India. Back in the days, it took months to ship coffee from India and back to Europe. During that time the beans would get exposed to all kinds of weather, among them the monsoon, and somehow they developed a unique flavor. As naval transportation improved, the trip suddenly became a lot shorter, and the customers complained that the coffee lacked the old ‘monsoon’ flavor. A new processing method was invented that aimed to replicate the conditions of the arduous journey from east to west.
The process begins by picking crops of beans and sun drying them in large barbecues. When they’re dried, the beans are sorted into two graded piles and stored in a warehouse. You can have grade ‘A’ or grade ‘AA.’ Starting in June and going through September, the coffee beans are exposed to constant monsoon moisture through well-ventilated warehouses.
At this time, the coffee beans must be carefully turned and raked several times. This constant moisture exposure causes the beans to swell and eventually turn a pale gold color.
The moisture exposure leads to a very low pH level and for that reason most specialty coffee customers avoid this kind of coffee.
Processing in the future
Historically, the washed process has been seen as being superior to other processing methods. Partly, because it had a taste that was considered more ‘clean’, but also because it was efficient at sorting out unripe cherries or other defects.
This is about to change. Specialty coffee consumers, as well as the ’emerging’ coffee markets in Asia, are looking for novel flavors, and this demand is met by innovative farmers, who are able to integrate agricultural science into their processing methods. This enables them to create interesting and complex lots without the risks inherent to dry processed coffee in the past.
This trend can also be observed at competitions such as the World Brewers Cup, where three consecutive winners from 2015 to 2017 all opted for natural processed coffee.
In 2018 the winner used a bean that had undergone carbonic maceration. Clearly, there’s an increased awareness about processing a all levels of specialty coffee today.
Like there are different categories for wine; red, white and rosé, we’ll probably also start to think about coffee in terms of the processing in the future.